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This commit is contained in:
Stavros Korokithakis
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title = "A simple guide to PID control"
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weight = 1
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# A simple guide to PID control
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I made some changes to my quadcopter the other day for [a new photography project I'm working on](https://www.makerfol.io/project/m8xrLUp-light-painting-with-drones/).
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Unfortunately, it turned out that it wasn't good enough, and that I'd have to tune my [PID loop](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller), which I knew nothing about.
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After watching a few videos and reading a few things, I learnt enough to be dangerous, and to hopefully be able to explain the concepts simply, so I want to write them down here before I forget.
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title = "E6000 hinges"
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weight = 2
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sort_by = "weight"
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# E6000 hinges
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I love Goop/E6000 glue, it's very versatile and makes for a great bond.
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However, do remember to work with it outside, as it is not safe to breathe.
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One of the coolest things you can do with it is make hinges, for control surfaces as well as for any hatches you may have.
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title = "FPV frequency chart"
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weight = 3
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sort_by = "weight"
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# FPV frequency chart
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If you're curious about which frequencies to use for video when there are multiple people flying FPV, as well as which bands are used by various manufacturers, here's a handy chart:
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[](../../resources/48cfa1097ca847c5a9ff8229005e7f50.png)
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[](/resources/48cfa1097ca847c5a9ff8229005e7f50.png)
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It was made by [5zero7 RC](https://youtu.be/wScS5XloviM) with information from [a Propwashed article](https://www.propwashed.com/video-frequency-management/).
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title = "General RC tips"
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weight = 4
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# General RC tips
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These are general tips for building RC planes/quads/whatever:
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* Propellers have a direction: The top usually has letters like, for example, "6040" (which denotes the size and pitch of the propeller), and the top needs to always point towards where the plane will be flying (the front). No matter if you have a pusher or puller, the top of the propeller needs to be pointing forward.
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title = "Getting uninverted SBUS on a no-name FrSky-compatible receiver"
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weight = 5
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# Getting uninverted SBUS on a no-name FrSky-compatible receiver
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I got an [RC receiver](https://www.banggood.com/2_4G-8CH-D8-Mini-FrSky-Compatibel-Receiver-With-PWM-PPM-SBUS-Output-p-1140478.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN) from Banggood. There's uninverted SBUS on this pad:
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[](../../resources/ccc7571db5d147328860077fdc0aa745.jpg)
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[](/resources/ccc7571db5d147328860077fdc0aa745.jpg)
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To break this out to the SBUS pad, I had to remove/bridge the resistor that is circled in the image, and remove/bridge the FET on the other side:
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[](../../resources/1b0f508a533e45b496c6636d49161b0c.jpg)
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[](/resources/1b0f508a533e45b496c6636d49161b0c.jpg)
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title = "Getting uninverted SBUS/SmartPort on the FrSky XSR receiver"
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weight = 6
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sort_by = "weight"
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# Getting uninverted SBUS/SmartPort on the FrSky XSR receiver
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To get uninverted SBUS/SmartPort on the FrSky XSR/X4RS receiver, you can repurpose the CPPM pad.
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Remove the two small resistors shown in the image, and solder the two lower pads (together) to either the CPPM pad or the MOSFET pin shown in the photo:
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[](../../resources/f86da9a7aac1413ebd77825897164f7f.jpg)
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[](/resources/f86da9a7aac1413ebd77825897164f7f.jpg)
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They should be soldered like this (remember to solder both resistor pads together):
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[](../../resources/815576429ece43789dbc70dfd33517a1.jpg)
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[](/resources/815576429ece43789dbc70dfd33517a1.jpg)
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Now the CPPM pad will be uninverted SBUS/SmartPort instead.
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It seems to be a bit of a gamble whether you get SBUS or SmartPort, it might be firmware-dependent.
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title = "INAV tuning tips"
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weight = 7
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# INAV tuning tips
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Here are some general INAV tuning tips and things I've learned throughout my builds. Keep in mind that *these only apply to wings* (and maybe planes), not quads:
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* To make turns in automatic modes smoother, use `set nav_fw_control_smoothness = 8`.
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title = "Drone stuff"
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weight = 3
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## Contents
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# Contents
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Click on a link in the list below to go to that page:
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1. [A simple guide to PID control](../../drone-stuff/a-simple-guide-to-pid-control)
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1. [E6000 hinges](../../drone-stuff/e6000-hinges)
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1. [FPV frequency chart](../../drone-stuff/fpv-frequency-chart)
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1. [General RC tips](../../drone-stuff/general-rc-tips)
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1. [Getting uninverted SBUS on a no-name FrSky-compatible receiver](../../drone-stuff/getting-uninverted-sbus-on-a-no-name-frsky-compatible-receiver)
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1. [Getting uninverted SBUS/SmartPort on the FrSky XSR receiver](../../drone-stuff/getting-uninverted-sbus-smartport-on-the-frsky-xsr-receiver)
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1. [INAV tuning tips](../../drone-stuff/inav-tuning-tips)
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1. [Miscellaneous](../../drone-stuff/miscellaneous)
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1. [Omnibus F4 V3 pinout](../../drone-stuff/omnibus-f4-v3-pinout)
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1. [Omnibus F4 pro servo diode](../../drone-stuff/omnibus-f4-pro-servo-diode)
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1. [QGroundControl to Mission Planner conversion script](../../drone-stuff/qgroundcontrol-to-mission-planner-conversion-script)
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1. [Transmitter external module pinout](../../drone-stuff/transmitter-external-module-pinout)
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1. [Transportable C1 Chaser](../../drone-stuff/transportable-c1-chaser)
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1. [A simple guide to PID control](../../drone-stuff/a-simple-guide-to-pid-control.html)
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1. [E6000 hinges](../../drone-stuff/e6000-hinges.html)
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1. [FPV frequency chart](../../drone-stuff/fpv-frequency-chart.html)
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1. [General RC tips](../../drone-stuff/general-rc-tips.html)
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1. [Getting uninverted SBUS on a no-name FrSky-compatible receiver](../../drone-stuff/getting-uninverted-sbus-on-a-no-name-frsky-compatible-receiver.html)
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1. [Getting uninverted SBUS/SmartPort on the FrSky XSR receiver](../../drone-stuff/getting-uninverted-sbus-smartport-on-the-frsky-xsr-receiver.html)
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1. [INAV tuning tips](../../drone-stuff/inav-tuning-tips.html)
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1. [Miscellaneous](../../drone-stuff/miscellaneous.html)
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1. [Omnibus F4 V3 pinout](../../drone-stuff/omnibus-f4-v3-pinout.html)
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1. [Omnibus F4 pro servo diode](../../drone-stuff/omnibus-f4-pro-servo-diode.html)
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1. [QGroundControl to Mission Planner conversion script](../../drone-stuff/qgroundcontrol-to-mission-planner-conversion-script.html)
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1. [Transmitter external module pinout](../../drone-stuff/transmitter-external-module-pinout.html)
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1. [Transportable C1 Chaser](../../drone-stuff/transportable-c1-chaser.html)
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title = "Miscellaneous"
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weight = 8
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# Miscellaneous
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This is a bunch of miscellaneous info that wouldn't fit anywhere else:
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- The ZOHD Dart 250g with the stock motor draws 4.5A on 2S with the 5x5 propeller. It draws the same amperage at exactly 75% throttle with a 3S battery and the same propeller.
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title = "Omnibus F4 pro servo diode"
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weight = 10
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sort_by = "weight"
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# Omnibus F4 pro servo diode
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To isolate the servo 5V rail from the controller's 5V power supply, remove this diode:
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[](../../resources/6d668e05d8a54580966b94a752f3b7db.png)
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[](/resources/6d668e05d8a54580966b94a752f3b7db.png)
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Now the servos' 5V rail can be powered from another 5V supply to avoid servo current backflow into the FC.
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There's also a [schematic for this FC](../../resources/805930c3bedc4393ba947f0e0bfa369d.pdf).
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There's also a [schematic for this FC](/resources/805930c3bedc4393ba947f0e0bfa369d.pdf).
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* * *
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title = "Omnibus F4 V3 pinout"
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weight = 9
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sort_by = "weight"
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# Omnibus F4 V3 pinout
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This is the pinout of the Omnibus F4 V3:
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[](../../resources/99f5c91454204c1d9740a8d9b876833b.png)
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[](/resources/99f5c91454204c1d9740a8d9b876833b.png)
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Also:
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title = "QGroundControl to Mission Planner conversion script"
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weight = 11
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sort_by = "weight"
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# QGroundControl to Mission Planner conversion script
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If you have a parameter dump from QGroundControl, I wrote a small script that will convert it to a Mission Planner compatible file. You can also use [Parachute](https://gitlab.com/stavros/parachute) to do your backups/restores/conversions.
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Just save this script somewhere as `convert_qgc_params` and run it as `./convert_qgc_params <qgc params> <output file>`:
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title = "Transmitter external module pinout"
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weight = 12
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sort_by = "weight"
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# Transmitter external module pinout
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The transmitter (Taranis, Jumper, RadioMaster, etc) pinout is, from top to bottom:
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* PPM
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@@ -14,7 +10,7 @@ The transmitter (Taranis, Jumper, RadioMaster, etc) pinout is, from top to botto
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It's illustrated in this photo:
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[](../../resources/72d23239af1541d4b170271c1e9e21eb.jpg)
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[](/resources/72d23239af1541d4b170271c1e9e21eb.jpg)
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title = "Transportable C1 Chaser"
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weight = 13
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sort_by = "weight"
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insert_anchor_links = "right"
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# Transportable C1 Chaser
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I have a [C1 Chaser](https://www.banggood.com/C1-Chaser-1200mm-Wingspan-EPO-Flying-Wing-FPV-Racer-Aircraft-RC-Airplane-KIT-p-1102080.html?custlinkid=667416&p=6W16207412782201611V), and it's a fantastic wing.
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It flies great, and is very efficient. The only problem I had with it was that it's too long to easily carry around, as it has a 1.2m wingspan.
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I've cut three straws to length, sanded the straws and the spar channel a little with coarse sandpaper, and glued the former in the latter, as you can see here (the straw in the photo is not cut to length yet):
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[](../../resources/5ac6bff04962497083b8403ed0fded98.jpg)
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[](/resources/5ac6bff04962497083b8403ed0fded98.jpg)
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[](../../resources/65ff483180ad483795b32d0b65f72613.jpg)
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[](/resources/65ff483180ad483795b32d0b65f72613.jpg)
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Make sure to leave a few mm from the inside edge of the wing (so the straw doesn't touch the edge, again not pictured in the photo), so the spar's edge doesn't rub against the straw, to avoid splitting it.
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Also, leave the spar in the straws while gluing, so the straws don't lose their shape (but make sure you don't get glue on the spar and end up gluing it to the straw).
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@@ -31,7 +27,7 @@ For glue, I use [E6000](https://www.banggood.com/ZHANLIDA-152550ml-E6000-B6000-A
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This is what the final result will look like:
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[](../../resources/6c9034ecf9d9414d87fbc6b4ec2fa28e.jpg)
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[](/resources/6c9034ecf9d9414d87fbc6b4ec2fa28e.jpg)
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## Wings
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@@ -44,7 +40,7 @@ Already, the notch the C1 has stops the wing from rotating up, but it does not s
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Second, you obviously need the wing to be stable against left/right motion, or it will slide off the spar.
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To solve these problems, I [designed a simple connector with two halves](https://cad.onshape.com/documents/bd7ed4d575e32e06d46234b6/w/ab2adb2ae56e261604342410/e/ad8c70c01b2f8865eb84f5c6), one of which goes onto the fuselage and one onto the wing:
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[](../../resources/dd331e351cd0492794619526ccb89a3f.jpg)
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[](/resources/dd331e351cd0492794619526ccb89a3f.jpg)
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The connector has two components, one is a cylindrical channel for a carbon tube (which you can glue to one of the pieces, as in the photo) that stops the wing from rotating around the spar, and the other is a channel for an o-ring, which keeps the two halves from moving left to right.
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This is the end result:
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[](../../resources/b765e8d8e3db4eceaad1f33862fb7bcc.jpg)
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[](/resources/b765e8d8e3db4eceaad1f33862fb7bcc.jpg)
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To mount the wings, just insert the spar into the fuselage, insert the wings (making sure both tubes go into their respective holes), and place the o-ring into both halves of the connector.
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That gives you a secure and quick assembly.
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@@ -70,12 +66,12 @@ The last part is securing the vertical stabilizers. I did this with [two very sm
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First, press the stabilizer-side part (the Π-shaped one) onto the stabilizer on the place where you want it (I put it as shown in the photo), and cut slightly *inside* the indentation it creates.
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Then, glue it into place:
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[](../../resources/9e4279dbc32a4c28886b8dbb5e308f86.jpg)
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[](/resources/9e4279dbc32a4c28886b8dbb5e308f86.jpg)
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Then, insert the fuselage-side part (the inverted-T-shaped one) into the stabilizer-side part, align the stabilizer with the fuselage and press it in, to create the indentation onto the fuselage EPO, so you know where to cut.
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Insert the part into the cut and glue it in:
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[](../../resources/ac25d2c2031441549f266d83ed6ac030.jpg)
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[](/resources/ac25d2c2031441549f266d83ed6ac030.jpg)
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When everything has set, you can install the stabilizers by simply slotting the two parts into each other and mounting the wing.
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That way, the stabilizer isn't going anywhere, and you can install and remove it very quickly.
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