Migrate to mdBook
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Stavros Korokithakis
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title = "Maker things"
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## Contents
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Click on a link in the list below to go to that page:
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1. [Battery discharge curves](../../maker-things/battery-discharge-curves)
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1. [Electronics tips](../../maker-things/electronics-tips)
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1. [GRBL_ESP32 tips](../../maker-things/grbl-esp32-tips)
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1. [How to properly level your 3D printer](../../maker-things/how-to-properly-level-your-3d-printer)
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title = "Battery discharge curves"
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weight = 1
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# Battery discharge curves
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I wanted to buy some Sony VTC6 batteries, and I was wary of fakes, so I wrote a [battery discharge calculator](https://gitlab.com/stavros/assault-and-battery/) with an associated hardware component (just a simple current and voltage sensor). I then took some measurements of my known-good batteries, and the new ones I bought.
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The methodology was the following: I connected the battery to the sensor, and the sensor to a configurable load. I set the load to draw a certain amount of amps until it reached a cutoff voltage, and then to stop. I then plotted mAh drawn versus voltage, as well as amps drawn.
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This is a genuine (as far as I can tell) Sony VTC6, fairly used in high amp draw situations (I use it in my plane), in a 3S configuration:
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You can see that it output around 2600 mAh before I stopped it at 3V, which is quite good.
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Here's a brand new genuine VTC6, again in a 3S configuration:
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This time I ran it all the way down to 2.8, and you can see it output the full 3000 mAh.
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This is a pretty blatantly fake "Sony VTC6", brand new, in a 2S configuration:
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The performance falls off a cliff after around 3.6V, and it only outputs 1600 mAh before it dies completely.
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Trying to draw 6-7A is even more spectacular (and it gets very hot to the touch):
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Notice the huge voltage sag right as the load starts drawing.
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This is a white CNHL 4S 4000 mAh LiPo battery, slightly used:
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You can see that it's pretty decent, outputting nearly all of its nominal mAh, decently linearly, with a slightly faster drop after 3.7 V.
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title = "Electronics tips"
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weight = 2
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# Electronics tips
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This page contains various notes and tips about electronics.
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## Decoupling capacitors
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title = "GRBL_ESP32 tips"
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weight = 3
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# GRBL_ESP32 tips
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I made a CNC that uses [a custom board I designed](https://gitlab.com/stavros/esp32-cnc), and which runs [GRBL_ESP32](https://github.com/bdring/Grbl_Esp32/). I couldn't find the following info easily, so I've written it here:
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- You can specify the enable pin for the drivers with the `STEPPERS_DISABLE_PIN` option. This should be used like `#define STEPPERS_DISABLE_PIN GPIO_NUM_2`.
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title = "How to properly level your 3D printer"
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weight = 4
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sort_by = "weight"
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insert_anchor_links = "right"
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# How to properly level your 3D printer
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I see many people on our 3D printer Facebook group ask about adhesion issues with their printer. 99% of the time, this is because they have leveled improperly, and not because of the bed material.
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I have taken photos of filament when the nozzle was leveled at various heights from the bed. I greatly recommend [an adjustable Z endstop](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1370547), which will save you lots of time when leveling/tramming.
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In this first photo, I have leveled too high (meaning the nozzle is too high compared to the bed). You can see that the filament is cylindrical, which means that it has just dropped onto the bed (or minimally touched it), leading to very poor adhesion. You can imagine that, if the filament is just dropped onto the bed, it won’t adhere well:
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The next photo is also a bit too high. It’s not as high as the previous photo, so it has partially adhered, but there are gaps between the rows and adhesion still won’t be great:
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The next photo has been leveled too low. The filament is mushed against the bed, but it’s mushed too much, leading to transparent-looking rows of filament. The specific filament I’m using tends to look transparent even when leveled properly, but this is too low regardless:
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For the last photo, I’ve leveled it pretty much perfectly. You can see that the rows aren’t cylindrical at all, instead they’re long strips that are touching each other properly and don’t look too transparent. If you insert a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle, you will be able to move it with some difficulty, but it won’t move very freely.
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There you have it! If your filament looks cylindrical, follow your printer’s manual to reduce the distance between bed and nozzle. If it looks transparent and missing in places completely, you need to increase the distance. If it looks mushed and has the proper color, and the rows are touching each other just so, you’re perfect and ready to print!
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8
content/maker-things/index.md
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8
content/maker-things/index.md
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# Contents
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Click on a link in the list below to go to that page:
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1. [Battery discharge curves](../../maker-things/battery-discharge-curves.html)
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1. [Electronics tips](../../maker-things/electronics-tips.html)
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1. [GRBL_ESP32 tips](../../maker-things/grbl-esp32-tips.html)
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1. [How to properly level your 3D printer](../../maker-things/how-to-properly-level-your-3d-printer.html)
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