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Stavros Korokithakis
2020-11-27 01:04:39 +02:00
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title = "Model build notes"
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## Contents
Click on a link in the list below to go to that page:
1. [Building notes for the FT Mighty Mini Arrow](../../model-build-notes/building-notes-for-the-ft-mighty-mini-arrow)
1. [Mini Drak build condensed instructions](../../model-build-notes/mini-drak-build-condensed-instructions)

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title = "Building notes for the FT Mighty Mini Arrow"
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These notes are a condensed version of the [FT Arrow build video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD2Ca2oskVs).
![maxresdefault.jpeg](../../resources/d4819ca1c3d0490daaa12f62af09aa00.jpeg)
## Wings
* Do an "A" fold on the spars and glue, stop 15mm from each edge. Use a triangle to make sure the spar folds are perpendicular.
* Open the servo hole.
* Cut the bevels, double on wing and single on elevon (on the elevon side).
* Add a thin ribbon on glue on the bottom of the hinge for strength, and scrape almost all of it off.
* Remove servo pocket from the wing.
* Fold the wing with the bottom on top, to curve the leading edge without crinkling the airfoil score cuts.
* Cut the side pods if you aren't going to use a center pod.
* Glue the side pod hinges.
* Cut the main pod space on the top of the wing.
* Skewer the wing score cuts.
* Line up the spar's servo hole onto the wing and glue.
* Glue the airfoil's score cuts and fold the wing so the score cuts are glued up.
* Cut the excess spar.
* Probably put the servos in now, to avoid having to make a hook later.
* Glue the leading edge, bottoms of the spar, and the end of the trailing edge, and press closed.
### Joining the wings
* Tape the wings together at the bottom, glue them together in the middle, lay them down and wipe the excess glue.
* Cut the excess edge of the nose.
## Center pod
* Pop out the foam tabs on the wings, where the center pod will go.
* Pop out the tabs on the center pod.
* Do an "A" fold on the bottom plate.
* Fold the little edge of the top of the center pod over (and/or add tape).
* Glue the center pod on.
* Install the control horns and servos (I use epoxy for the control horns as they tend to get ripped out with just hot glue).
* Use the reflex checker foam to calibrate the wing's reflex.
* Add a ziptie to the control rod so it doesn't bend.
## Power pod
* Install the motor onto the power pod and install the power pod. You probably don't need to glue this, just make sure it's tight.
* Remove the foam from the sides of the nose.
* Do a "C" fold on the back bit (and probably add some tape).
* Carefully bend the nose.
* Test fit it and glue the front part.
* Use more tape to secure the front and sides.
* Add some tape so you can pull the top open.
* Add some glue to the bottom of the top hatch so it catches and secures on close.
## Winglets
* Only cut the top part of the wing, parallel to the bottom.
* Line up the reference line on the winglets and glue (the front tip of the winglet should be flush with the leading edge).
## Electronics
* The rest is left as an exercise to the reader.

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Sources:
1. [Håvard's Mini Drak build video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4_dJxiQUjs)
2. [Team Legit's build video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMbbIzs1TOQ)
To start building:
1. Nubs:
1. Cut off all the nubs with **a fresh blade**, and sand the remainder down with a sanding block to make it flush with the rest of the foam.
2. Motor:
1. Cut the top left and right corner of the motor mount off, so it doesn't conflict with the screws in the foam.
2. Use **only a hacksaw** to open a slot in the foam for the motor mount to go through.
3. Insert the mount into the slot, test it out and remove it again.
4. Apply ample glue both inside the slot and on the motor mount, both on the sides and the top.
5. Insert the motor mount into the slot, put a hard surface (like a hardcover book) under the foam, another hard surface at the top, add some weight or clamp and leave to cure.
3. Thick spars:
1. Remove the spars from the sleeves and keep the sleeves. **Do not cut the spars**.
2. Insert the sleeves in the wings and measure them out. Mark the point in which the sleeve sticks out of the wing and cut with a dremel **outdoors**.
3. Trim the sleeves for the main fuselage.
4. Use some sandpaper wrapped around the spar to lightly scuff the body where the spars will go.
5. Put the rear spar into the sleeve, to help you push the sleeve down into the foam. Make sure it's pushed down all the way to the bottom.
6. **Check that the wings are straight.**
7. CA glue the sleeve into the body while making sure it's flat and down all the way inside the body.
8. Fill the cavity with E6000 so it seeps around the edges to hold the entire sleeve. Use **lots** of glue.
9. Put tape over the edges so the tape doesn't spill over either edge.
10. Put the wings on something that keeps them level, so the glue doesn't flow downhill.
11. For the main body, tape the sides of the sleeve and the insides so the glue doesn't seep in.
12. Make sure the main body is level while the glue cures.
13. Add spar caps and glue with E6000.
4. Thin spars:
1. Lightly open the channels with a hacksaw blade, so it sits exactly on the surface.
2. Cut the spars longer, so you can grip the end and spin it while gluing.
3. Tape around the channel so glue doesn't spill out over the channel.
4. Put glue in, turn the spar around and remove excess.
5. Take the tape off ten minutes after you apply the glue, so the tape doesn't stick.
5. Elevons:
1. Mark the top and bottom on the balsa.
2. Cut the balsa in some way.
3. Hold both elevons together and sand them together to make them identical.
4. Possibly sand the balsa where it meets the body, for full articulation.
5. Mount the elevons with two pieces of tape stuck to each other, overlapping, so there are two sticky sides.
6. Servos:
1. Possibly use larger control horns, found on Thingiverse, because reasons.
7. Winglets:
1. Glue the winglets completely flush with the tip of the wing.
Notes:
> Make sure you use the tallest control horns possible and have loads of expo in for the roll axis (pitch is fine). Matt (because the MD is very roll sensitive as I found out to my surprise).